Yes, I know. The Fujifilm X-Pro 1 is far from new. But as the old saying goes, better late than never. 🙂 A couple of months ago, I wrote up a first impressions article after spending a weekend with the camera in the city of Genova. Since then, the camera has continued to intrigue me, and I knew I wanted to spend more quality time with it. Then, in July, I had the chance to take a deeper look at the X-Pro 1 thanks to the generosity of the Fujifilm Italia team who kindly sent me one to test for two weeks.
I won’t go into all the nitty-gritty technical details as there are many thorough reviews out there already. This is more of a personal evaluation of the camera and the Fuji X system in general. I also explain why I am seriously considering it for work and most importantly, why it could be the camera that allows me to drop the DSLR system entirely.
Fuji X-Pro 1 Main Specs
- Sensor: 16.3 million pixels – 23.6mm x 15.6mm (APS-C) X-Trans CMOS
- Lens System: interchangeable lens system – Fujifilm X Mount
- ISO Sensitivity: 200 – 6400, extendable to 100, 12800 and 25600 (JPG only)
- Continuous shooting: max 6 fps
- Autofocus: TTL contrast AF
- Internal Stabilization: No
- Viewfinder Hybrid (optical and electronic)
- LCD Screen 3.0-inch LCD monitor, approx. 1,230,000 dots
- Movie recording: 1920 x 1080 pixels (24fps) with stereo sound
- Picture Profiles Film Simulation modes
- Water and dust proof No
- Sensor Cleaner Yes
- Built-in Flash No
- Extras: Motion Panorama, Multiple Exposure modes
- Dimensions: 139.5 (W) x 81.8 (H) x 42.5 (D) mm / 5.5 (W) x 3.2 (H) x 1.7 (D) in
- Weight: Approx. 450 g / 15.9 oz. (including battery and memory card)
It isn’t a full frame camera but I don’t care
If I think of Fuji X cameras such as the X-Pro1 or the X100s, the first positive point that comes to my mind is image quality. I love the X-Trans sensor. I love the quality of the out-of-camera JPGs and their unique colour reproduction. I love the great versatility of the RAF files and what I can achieve with them.
If you mount the right lenses, such as the 35mm f/1.4 or a Leica lens with an adapter, you will very rarely miss having a full frame sensor. I own a Nikon D700, an Olympus OM-D E-M5 and a Fuji X100s and when it comes to pure image quality, the X100s is my first choice. Of course, the X100s can be limiting due to its fixed prime lens, while the X-Pro1 offers the advantage of an interchangeable lens system.
It is a question of the visual appeal of an image, not a question of sensor size.
When I took my first pictures with an X-Trans sensor camera, which was the X100s, I saw right away that something was different. I remember looking at Heather and saying something along the lines of “Wow, these colours are something else.” I had only been looking at those first pictures on the camera’s rear LCD screen, but it was enough to feel the difference. So when I got the X-Pro1, I already knew I would find something familiar, despite the X100s’ sensor being an update on the X-Pro 1’s.
My absolute favourite Film Simulation Mode is Astia; it really stands out from the usual standard/vivid profiles you find on other cameras. I love how this mode renders colours on the warm end of the spectrum, such as yellow and red.
The truth is that when I use the X-Pro 1, I see it as a perfect high-end portable camera. I never think for a second that it is an APS-C sensor. I have never found myself in a situation where ISO or shallow depth of field wasn’t satisfactory.
The sensor has a great amount of dynamic range that you can obtain not only by post-processing the RAW files but also by choosing the right settings on-camera. In situations like sunsets or a cloudy days, you can set ISO to 400 or even 800, set DR to 200 or 400 and shadows at +1. And I can guarantee that you will be surprised by the results.
I only wish that I were able to post-process the RAW files with the same tonal range I get with the JPGs. There are alternatives to the standard Adobe Color profile such as the Huelight Color Profiles that enhance colours and skin rendering, or other RAW developing software that read Fuji X-Trans RAF files more accurately, but none of them will match the exact colours the sensor delivers on-camera.
That said, the X-Trans CMOS sensor is also the “least digital” sensor that I have had the chance to use. Its great dynamic range in shadows, highlights and its unique way of reproducing colours definitely closes the gap with film, and makes the task of emulating the look of Fujifilm film easier. A great example is Rebecca Lily‘s new Pro Set II for Adobe Lightroom which I am currently testing. They have been specifically developed with the X-Trans sensor in mind thanks to its film-like palette.
N.B.: I will post an article specifically about this topic in the coming weeks.
Trusting the high ISO of the X-Pro 1
The sensor is an X-Trans type with 16MP of resolution. It is perfectly clean up to 3200 ISO, and is more than usable at 6400 ISO. In fact, I would even say that 12800 ISO is satisfactory in some situations. One of the reasons I love to use this camera is because I can trust its ISO. I don’t hesitate to set it to Auto mode and focus mainly on my aperture and shutter speed because even if the camera goes up to 1600 or 3200 ISO in a situation where I could use less, the images will still be clear, sharp and noise-free. Furthermore, the X-Trans sensor has a better ISO/noise ratio than other cameras and I find the “grain” more “organic” and less digital than other sensors, another aspect that brings the image closer to the film look.
So even if I go up to 6400 ISO, I am not bothered by the picture’s appearance as the grain it produces is quiet pleasant to the eye.
This is really a great advantage in my opinion, especially for those like me who prefer to work with natural light.
Mount prime lenses on the X-Pro 1
The X-Pro1 has been designed first and foremost for professionals, so Fuji wanted to build high quality lenses to match the great quality of its sensor. When the camera was released, there were only three lenses available, but now there are eight from Fuji and two new lenses from Carl Zeiss. Even more high-end lenses will be released within the next few months, including a 56mm f/1.2 (85mm equivalent). This portrait lens will certainly expand the possibilities for professionals who demand only the best.
For me, the X-Pro 1 is meant to be used with prime lenses. I have nothing against zoom lenses and the recent XF 55-200mm is very nice (check out my two hands-on reviews here and here) considering its non-constant aperture, but I find it upsets the equilibrium of the compact body. I prefer the ergonomics of the system with small and fast lenses.
Fujifilm XF 55-200mm f/3.5-4.8 R LM OIS at 95mm
Fujifilm XF 55-200mm f/3.5-4.8 R LM OIS at 78mm
My favourite XF lenses are the popular 35mm f/1.4 and the 14mm f/2.8. The first is one of the best 50mm equivalent lenses I’ve ever used. I love the bokeh and how it is sharp at all apertures.
From JPG (Astia)
From RAW
The 14mm f/2.8 is a great wide angle lens; I really enjoyed using it. It is the equivalent of 21mm on a full-frame camera, which makes it perfect for landscape and architecture shots.
HDR merged from 3 shots
I also used some Leica M lenses with an adaptor after the focus peaking firmware update and I must say that they suit the X system very well. I mainly used the Summicron 35mm f/2 but it wouldn’t be my first recommendation as the difference between it and the XF 35mm f/1.4 isn’t really noticeable, but if you can get your hands on some Summilux lenses like the 21mm or 24mm f/1.4, or the Summicron 92mm f/2 for portraits, it is really worth it and the focus peaking works like a charm (more on that later).
A camera that gets better with age
Just as wine becomes tastier as the years pass, something similar happens with the X-Pro 1 as well. When the camera was released in March 2012, its Achilles heel was the AF contrast detection system. It was too slow for many photography genres like street photography where you need the camera to lock fast and take the shot. Often, it wouldn’t lock in low-light conditions either. It was an innovative new camera but poor AF can turn any photographic outing into nightmare.
Since it was the first model of the new system, I wasn’t expecting perfection but this major issue stopped me from considering it as a serious option at first.
Then, Fuji took note and started to improve the camera, not by releasing a new model as many other brands would have done, but by releasing firmware updates. Some functions were enhanced, a new firmware for both the body and lenses with improved AF were released, and most recently, Version 3.01 has added a focus peaking feature.
I tested these improvements by bringing the camera with me for an event assignment at the National Automobile Museum in Turin.
I used the X-Pro1 with the 35mm f/1.4 and its latest firmware updates mainly to capture faces, laughs and people chatting and having a good time during aperitifs. The AF never let me down, and I mean never, even after the dinner when there was only artificial light illuminating the event. Unfortunately, being a private event, I cannot share the pictures with you, but I can happily confirm that I am no longer afraid to use the X-Pro 1 due to AF issues.
It is a wonderful improvement and in my opinion other brands should follow in Fuji’s footsteps.
Instead of releasing a new version of the same model every 6 months like Sony does with the Nex series, Fujj prefers to build a high-end model that will last at least two years and improve it with worthy software updates for free.
Note: the latest firmware update is the version 3.40 released in December 2014 that adds the AF-MF function. Click here to see a list of all the different firmware updates for the Fuji X-Pro1.
I didn’t test the AF-C mode long enough, but I almost never needed to use it. This isn’t a sports camera and I rarely had to follow a quickly-moving subject. The camera doesn’t have tracking which helps clarify that statement. I am not saying that it wouldn’t be great to have tracking, but for me, this camera suits landscape, portraits, weddings and street photography, and with all of these genres I always use the AF-S mode. That being said, other photographers would love to see improvements in this area and AF tracking is something that Fujifilm has hopefully added to its checklist.
N.B. I mentioned weddings as a suitable genre because I think the minimalistic appearance of the X-Pro 1 can help you approach the bride and groom in a more discreet and affable manner. However, you must know the camera inside and out before you take this step. If you are unsure at the beginning, bring it along with another system you already use (budget allowing). Weddings and events are the limit to the X-Pro 1’s flexibility. It can be done, but only after you have the perfect sense of how the camera will react in any given situation.
Another feature worth mentioning is the new peaking function. It really works well for both the LCD and the EVF. If you are not used to manual focusing, you will need to adapt your eye a little bit as manual focus requires more attention and concentration for the eye, but the peaking really helps a lot. I already use the peaking on my x100s sometimes, and I really enjoyed using the X-Pro 1 with Leica lenses. Looking at the results on my computer, only a few photos ended up being slightly soft.
This function really enhances the possibility to use other lens brands and therefore gives you a different approach to your photography. Leica M lenses are expensive, but you can find some good second-hand deals or look at some other brands like Voigtlaender for example which has several M mount lenses.
A precise feeling in your hand
As you can see from the pictures, the X-Pro 1 has a retro design that will remind you of rangefinder cameras from back in the day. It is very minimalistic with an all-black body, lacking in any other colours except the white writing on it. Even the brand and camera name aren’t invasive on the top of the camera. It is similar to the Leica M-P. I like that the camera is very discreet and this is also why I prefer using primes–smaller lenses keep that level of discretion up.
The camera is very simple to use. With an aperture ring on most lenses and a shutter speed dial like old cameras, you basically turn it on, check your ISO (or leave it on AUTO), set your aperture and speed, and start shooting. You cannot get more straightforward than that.
If you want to dig further into the picture settings and menu, you will find them very easy to navigate. The “Q” button bring all the main image settings together, and it is very comfortable to use. You also have a dedicated button for other important settings such as AF, DRIVE (shooting modes) and AE, as well as two function buttons (Fn on top and the “down arrow” on the arrow pad). I should also mention the AF mode selector on the front and the exposure compensation dial on top, which are both very useful when working in aperture priority.
The camera build is very solid as are all the buttons and dials. The grip is great–it feels really nice in your hand without being too heavy.
The cherry on top is the hybrid viewfinder, where you can switch between optical and electronic with a simple switch of the dedicated toggle on the front. The optical viewfinder won’t be effective in all situations because of the parallax issue and because some lens hoods get in the way. It is better to use it with wide angles. With other lenses or if you are focusing very close to the subject, you want to rely on the EVF. I would say that it makes sense to use the EVF 80% of the time, but when you need a clearer and sharper view of your composition or if the lighting is low, it is very nice to be able to switch instantly from one to the other.
A system that aims for perfection
If you have read the entire article, you have probably already guessed that I really love this camera. It wasn’t love at first sight the first time I tried it despite my impressions being positive overall, but the mix of having extra time with it and the addition of the latest firmware updates have made me fonder of the camera than I’d ever imagined.
It isn’t a camera for everyone, and don’t buy it if you don’t intend on using it as a primary camera for your photography or at least some of your photography. The X-Pro1 and the X interchangeable lens system are 100% worthy of being on the front line of every photo shoot you do, unless you are doing sports photography or still life as they require a different sort of gear. It is a real alternative to DSLRs, but doesn’t perform like a DSLR. It is different–more suited to genres where you have time to observe, compose, and take the shot.
HDR (bracketing at 1ev)
Buy it and use it with fast prime lenses. Don’t buy with the intent of using the 55-200mm as your primary lens. If that is your intention, then forget about the X system all together and stick with a DSLR and a good telephoto lens.
The X-Pro 1 is a camera that you want to purchase as a means of updating your approach to photography. Or, if you are an experienced photographer, it is a way of getting back to the basics.
Conclusion and thoughts about the next stage
Right now, switching to the X system is beyond my budget, but if I had the money, I would seriously consider putting the X-Pro1 alongside my X100s and OM-D E-M5 for my work and personal projects as a photographer because it perfectly synthesizes how I want to work: portable high-quality cameras that handle small fast-aperture lenses.
I should also mention that the X-Pro 1 has a little sister called X-E1. It is a cheaper version and lacks some features such as the hybrid viewfinder (electronic only) but both cameras share the same 16MP X-Trans CMOS sensor. So all my thoughts about quality, firmware updates and lenses count for the X-E1 as well. The ergonomics are slightly different and it has a different design. I won’t say more as I have never had the chance to try it seriously, but if you choose it over the X-Pro 1, know that its cheaper price will give you a larger margin to buy more lenses or other accessories you might need for the system.
It still needs some improvement, but seeing how the camera has evolved in this year and a half, I really believe that the system can attain perfection and become something completely different from any other system. Not only am I waiting to become just that bit richer, but I am also awaiting a new model and new lenses, like the recently-announced 23mm f/1.4 and the 58mm f/1.2. At that point, I really won’t need a DSLR anymore.
I realise that I didn’t list any negative points. There are a few but instead of making a list, I can write what I would like to see in the next release:
- improved and new AF system with phase detection, as quick as my OM-D E-M5 or at least very close to it;
- the option to save TIFF files to have a less compressed image with those lovely Velvia/Astia colours;
- a more advanced multiple exposure option where I can choose to blend the alpha channel instead of a fifty-fifty opacity blend;
- three function buttons;
- bracketing up to 5 or 6 shots, not only 3;
- an improved software engine to render the menu and the overall functionality faster and more responsive;
- more resolution for the EVF;
- better video function;
- 1/8000s shutter speed;
Then, improvements aside, I hope to see an X-Pro2 with a new sensor, with increased dynamic range and sensitivity such as native ISO 100 or a maximum ISO of 50200 with both RAW and JPGs.
Another great addition could be internal stabilisation. It would be a great feature that allows us to work better with a slow shutter speed. When I see what I can achieve with the 5-axis stabilisation of the E-M5/E-P5, I really think it could be a killer feature.
Anyway, if Fuji managed to put even half of what I wrote in the next release, I would be more than happy. And for those who wish for a full frame X-Pro, I don’t think it’s going to happen, at least not for now. They would have to change all the lenses, so it wouldn’t make sense with all the new lenses on the verge of being released. My prediction is that there will be a full frame X200 with an organic sensor in 2015. But enough with the wishes and dreams–there is already a wonderful camera to enjoy out there in the form of the Fuji X-Pro 1.
A very special thanks goes out to Matilde and all the Fujifilm Italia team who always show us kindness and support, Heather and MirrorLessons.
Hi Nathaniel, I bought my XPro1 in 2012, to use along side my Nikon gear. Great to get back to basics with the primes, ease of use and the firmware updates made this a great camera. I had a client buy the XE1, hated it and passed in onto me in July. It changed everything. I started using the Fuji gear much more that the Nikon. From September 15, to mid November I had not picked up my DSLR at all. Sold it and bought the XE2 to compliment a different area in my work. I have found that I am really enjoying my work so much more than I have in the past few years.
No Matter which you choose you will enjoy the freedom of getting back to the reason you got into photography.
Hi Nathaniel, both cameras are great. It’s a very difficult choice. My advice is to try them both in a camera store. See how they feel in your hand, try different lenses.
Both are great for street photography and landscape. I prefer Fuji colors and that could be a decisive argument. Also Fuji prime lenses are great, if you go with the X-Pro go with primes, they make a difference.
The GX7 is smaller and can almost fit a pocket with a pancake lens. Also AF is faster.
I wish I came by your website a week ago! I’ve been looking to buy my first camera after being out of photography for a couple of years (my last camera got stolen) and I have been stuck between the new panasonic gx7 and this Fuji. From what I can understand, both cameras are excellent. I’m heading to Japan next April for a couple of years, and want something that will do great with street photography, as well as some landscaping, maybe some occasional cycling photography and such. And I love the new rangefinder style that is smaller, lighter, and easier to carry than a DSLR.
Ahhh… it’s tough to decide. Hah 🙂
Seems to me that I cannot go wrong either way. Good reviews on your website, keep it up!
Thanks for the info, I did think about holding back until a replacement it announced, but I think it’s a too good of offer to miss, plus the X-Pro 1 will be all the camera I will ever need really, the X10 is all the camera I will ever need but hay ho the extra bit of IQ and flexibility will be nice!
Cheers, Steve
Thanks Stephen. The difference between X-trans sensor 1 & 2 regarding image quality is hardly noticeable in real world situations. The main difference is the hybrid AF but if AF speed isn’t your main concern, then go for the X-Pro. Just know that the OVF can lack precision regarding composition due to the parallax issue.
If you like landscape, the 14mm is a wonderful lens. You could add the 35mm for street and you get two of the best Fuji X lenses.
There should be an X-Pro replacement in the first quarter of 2014, so probably the X-pro1 will drop in price.
Great review!
I’ve had my heard set on the X-Pro 1 for a few months now, fell in love with my X10! But with the X-E2 out is it worth getting the X-Pro 1, or am I better off getting the X-E2 for the X Trans II CMOS?
I love the OVF of the X-Pro which is a big selling point for me, but I might be able to live without it… if the sensor is that bit better, AF speed is not really a concern for me, still using a 4 year old entry DSLR fine.
I suspect I would use the primes as there is a great deal on with the X-Pro 1 £999 with the 18mm + either the 27, 35 or 60mm lens (think I would go with the 35mm) but the X-E2 is £100 more with the 18-55mm lens so got the range I like covered, just not the nice fast primes.
I only really do Landscape and the odd bit of street work don’t sell or print anything but like the back to basics idea of primes, used to love my Canon T90 and 50mm lens.
Choices choices…..
Cheers, Steve
Hi Jacob. Actually I don’t own the X-Pro1, I managed to have a sample for several times to review it but the only Fujifilm camera I own right now is the X100s. The reason is that I want to wait before investing in a full Fuji system. In my work I need fast AF and the Olympus OM-D is better for this.
Anyway, regarding your dilemma, the X-E2 right now would be the best choice. The OVF on the X-Pro1 can be very limiting depending on the lens you are using. The EVF is more reliable and also gives you interesting features like focus peaking.
The next X-pro should be announced in the first quarter of 2014, and it certainly will have similar improvements like the X-E2 just had.
As for the X100s, it is a camera I felt in love with from day one. Yes the lens is not interchangeable but I never found it limiting really. If you want something less wide than 28mm, this could actually be your answer. Of course it depends on what other focal lengths you might use on the X-pro and how often you would feel the need to use them.
Often having a non removable lens clear your mind about thinking which lens to mount:) But of course, it is also personal.
Wonderful review, which leaves me torn…..
I am mainly using now a Ricoh GRD4 and a GR1 (film), they replaced my 6D because I like to travel light. Use is street and documentary (or at least I am planning to..)
I am used to the 28mm now, I like it, but would prefer a bit less wide, maybe 35mm. So I am looking for a replacement of my GRD4 as the quality of the files are a bit limiting (small sensor, I like to print ‘big’…). I am naturally drawn to the X100s, but I am also looking at the X-Pro1, as I am afraid that just one focal length might be too limiting in the end. But the X100s is the newer camera, and Fuji clearly incorporated technical improvements that the X-pro1 seems to lack. (even better ISO performance, better AF) Also, the high flash sync appeals to me.
Another option could be the X-e2…..but I think I could not live with only an EVF, and would miss the OVF. Anyway, to make a long story short, you have both the X-pro1 and the X100s….what do you think?
BTW….what all these cameras miss in my opinion is weather sealing…..big miss.
Hi Jason, I am not a print expert but since I know a professional photographer who prints a lot, I asked him for some advice. He told me that you won’t have any problems in printing 100x70cm (39x27inches) with the X-pro file. He also gave me the advice of using the original file and size without post processing and leaving it to the person who will print the photograph and use the printer software. This is of course if you want the look coming straight from the camera. Since the E-M1 has the same resolution, I guess you can apply a similar advice for the Olympus file as well. Of course a good print lab is like a good film lab, it is important to know one that knows your work and can understand what results you are looking for in a printed photograph.
Hi Mathieu….. As a matter of interest….. What would be the maximum prints that could be made with either the OMD EM1, or the Fuji X-Pro if used for portraiture???
Cheers 🙂
Hi Jason, in my point of view both the X-Pro1 and the E-M1 have a better IQ than the D700. Even if they aren’t full frame, their sensors are newer than the one in the D700. I don’t know very well the 5dmkII but I can guess the same thing.
The main differences between the two systems are AF speed and overall speed (burst etc.). The E-M1 is for me the perfect camera. It really has everything and with good lenses, you won’t regret leaving your heavy DSLR at home when you realise how small the E-M1 package is.
The X-Pro1 is fascinating – the IQ is great, high ISO is better because it looks more organic with less noise. Dynamic range is also wider. But then, AF is slower, and there is less choice of lenses.
So my advice is, try to understand which lenses you will need the most, also in comparison to what you use with DSLRs. If AF is a top priority, then the E-M1 is better and you also get the advantage of the 5-axis stabilisation. IF you like to use primes mostly and can manage a slower AF, then the X-Pro1 is just fine.
Hi Mathieu, I have read on other’s personal thoughts on this camera that it equals their Canon 5DII, or their Nikon D700 and was wondering your thoughts as an experienced photographer as I am considering either this camera, or the OMD EM1 as a main camera for weddings/portraiture due to medical reasons. I have had limited use with both cameras and although the EM1 kicks butt for sheer speed, I am impressed with the picture that the fuji produces.
Thank you for your time,
Kind Regards
Jason
Forse è un problema legato al 18mm f/2 in particolare. Comunque nessuna lente mi sembra sia “protetta” in questo senso, quindi forse il rischio c’è anche per le altre. Proverò ad informarmi con altri utenti.
Grazie per i complimenti all’articolo 😉
Il problema della polvere e dei peluzzi (anche molto grandi) sulle lenti interne l’ho notato solo sul 18 mm. perchè è l’obiettivo che uso più spesso. Il problema è sicuramente causato dall’autofocus: lo spostamento veloce del gruppo ottico provoca un “effetto aspirapolvere”. Gli obiettivi sono abbastanza economici e non è assolutamente conveniente inviare l’obiettivo alla Fuji per la pulizia delle lenti interne. Mi pare un difetto molto grave per un apparecchio di questa categoria e prezzo.
Complimenti per la tua bellissima recensione sulla Fuji X Pro1.
Ciao Massimo, mi spiace per il tuo 18mm. Ti è successo anche con altri obiettivi XF? In effetti la protezione da polvere e acqua è una mancanza che non ho citato ma che sarebbe molto utile. Speriamo che Fuji la implementi nelle future macchine/obiettivi.
La Fuji X Pro1 è una fotocamera eccellente ma, in base alla mia esperienza, ha un gravissimo difetto per un apparecchio di questo livello. Dopo solo un anno di utilizzo le lenti INTERNE del 18 mm. si sono completamente ricoperte di polvere. La polvere entra probabilmente dalla ghiera dei diaframmi.
Thanks Augsburg, I still have my D700 but it always stays at home in a bag, and that’s not the way to treat a great camera, so I think I will sell it soon 😉
Great review and nice website. I have the Fuji X-E1, and got rid of my Nikon D700 right away. Like you infer, the full frame DSLR has become irrelevant.
Thanks Darren. I almost never touched the sharpening settings in Lightroom. But I often increase the clarity, so the pictures could seem sharper because of that.
Wonderful review and amazing picture. Might I ask what were the sharpening settings in Lightroom for the RAW files?
Thanks
Hi Wilbur, what I mean is that I wouldn’t recommend the camera to someone that does still life shots as his core business. All the still life photographers I know work with high end DSLR or medium format as they required top quality macro lenses and the highest possible resolution. That being said, there’s nothing wrong with the X-Pro1 for macro photography, but at a professional level, I think we will have to wait for more megapixels and more macro lenses before it becomes a more viable option.
I’ve used an X-Pro 1 for over a year and just love it. I understand why this camera might not be optimal for for sports photography, but why is it not a good choice for still life shots?